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Micromesh prep and polish http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=2954 |
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Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:38 am ] |
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To end my highjack of Bruce's thread I thought I would open a new one for this On the last guitar finished in my shop I changed my prep and level sand proceedure. I like it. I found it a lot less labor intensive and real simple and affective. Below is a short explanation Prep sand: Micromesh 100-180 Mx series on electric RO w/ soft backup pad. (added holes for vacum dust collection. made my own from high den. foam and adhisive backed loop) Clean up with naptha Apply sealer and 4-6 coats of finish over two days allowing to gas off between coats and set up over night dry Level with Micromesh 100-240 MX series on electric RO w/ soft backup pad. Clean up with naptha Apply final two coats and allow to cure (one week Min. Two is better, 30days is best) Final wet level (lightly soapy distiled water) and polish with 1800 (or 2400 depending)through 12000 regular series Micromesh on peunmatic RO w/ soft backup pad.(no holes) Clean up with naptha hand polish with Meguires #7 buff off with lambs wool pad on auto buffer high buff with fine compound This took half the time It use to take hand leveling with wet dry paper and leaves no disurnable scratch pattern and a pretty high gloss after the 12000 mm wet sand. Keep the pressure light when using the RO sander, let the MM do the cutting (don't try to wet sand with an electric RO. That goes with out saying, I would think ![]() Micromesh 100MX = to 320p, 240MX = to 600p ( goes finer = to 3250p but I don't use beyond 240MX/600p) Micromesh 1800 regular = to 600p, 8000 regular = to 2500p, 12000 regular = to 3500p (this last one is a close guess) |
Author: | Michael McBroom [ Wed Aug 24, 2005 11:17 am ] |
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Hi Michael, Guess I haven't been following Bruce's thread that you say you hijacked. Just one question so far -- what sort of finish are you using and how do you apply it? You're not french polishing are you? Best, Michael |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 12:17 am ] |
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Hi, Michael I use this process on KTM9 and nitro. The gas off and cure time for nito is differnt,but sanding proccess is the same. I have to admitt that the paper cost a penny or two, but the time it saves is great. I take good care to not over load or gum up the Micromesh and clean them off directly after use and I get good life out of them. Micromesh claims 15 times longer life. I would say more like four or five time with wet sanding and two or three times with dry sanding. I have not been using the MX series long enough to really say yet, but it seems to last about the same. The finish is sprayed. I do French Polish but dont use this process on French polish |
Author: | Dave Rector [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 12:26 am ] |
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Michael, I don't believe I've seen the MX type of MM. What is the difference between that and regular MM? And, where do you purchase it? Thanks for showing us your finishing schedule! This is a place that I can definately use all the help I can get. |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 1:12 am ] |
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It comes in corser grits is a bit more agressive. Designed for dry sanding on soft metal and hard woods I by direct from Micro surfaces at micro-surface.com. way cheaper than the kits at StewMac or LMI. |
Author: | Dave Rector [ Thu Aug 25, 2005 1:20 am ] |
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Thanks! I bought my last bunch of MM from Micro Surfaces so I am familiar with them. I think it may have been because I saw an earlier post of yours. Just didn't see the coarser grits when I ordered. Probably just wasn't looking for them. ![]() |
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